Elsewhere, instead of the high-altitude mountain treks often associated with Bhutan, there is rafting, birding experiences and a newly opened tiger trail within Royal Manas National Park. Instead of luxury lodges, there are homestays and eco-camps. And in 2024, Bhutan’s first high-end fly fishing lodge also opened in Manas.
According to Dolkar, a revitalisation of Gelephu’s Old Town is also underway, with a planned culinary project inspired by southern Bhutan’s diverse cultures. Here, she says travellers can expect thali platters and dal from the southern-dwelling Lhotshampa people, alongside fiery dishes like ema datshi (the country’s iconic chilli-and-cheese stew). Nearby, art-filled streets will feature Bhutanese murals by artist collective VAST, while a Heritage Village will highlight the country’s 13 traditional arts and crafts, from basket weaving to thangka painting.
Southern Bhutan was not always easy terrain for outsiders, or even for Bhutanese settlement. Malaria, monsoons, wild elephants and tigers kept the country’s residents concentrated in its middle belt of valleys and highlands. When the British attempted to control the area in the 1860s, they were repelled by a five-month battle against the Bhutanese known as the Duar War that ended their ambitions. As a result, the south stayed wild.
“There aren’t too many raw jungles left in the world,” said Tshering. “[This area is home to] raw jungle with natural [untamed] tigers. That is the jewel we have.”
A rendering of the new Gelephu International Airport, which will have yoga rooms and gong baths
Back in Gelephu, construction on the nation’s new airport and King Wangchuck’s futuristic new city is carrying on. When it’s finally unveiled, it won’t just transform how the world experiences Bhutan, but Bhutan itself.
